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Fully Nonlinear Shallow Water Waves Simulation Using Green-Naghdi Theory
Green-Naghdi theory model fully nonlinear water waves shoaling waves
2011/9/8
Green-Naghdi (G-N) theory is a fully nonlinear theory for water waves. Some researchers call it a fully nonlinear Boussinesq model. Different degrees of complexity of G-N theory are distinguished by “...
Harmonic Generation of Shallow Water Waves Over Topography
Harmonic Generation Shallow Water Waves Topography
2009/4/3
We investigate the reflection and nonlinear interaction between the first and second harmonics of a two-dimensional Boussinesq wavetrain. Effects of topography are included, the depth departing from a...
Simple Method for Measuring Relative Humidity, Water and Air Temperatures Within a Few Millimeters of Wind-Generated Water Waves
Measuring Relative Humidity Air Temperature Wind-Generated Water Waves
2009/3/24
A very short time-constant thermistor, mounted on a streamlined strut, was placed to alternately measure the water and air temperatures during the passage of wind-driven water waves in the laboratory....
Symmetric Finite-Amplitude Rotational Water Waves
symmetric periodic water waves Water Waves Symmetric Finite-Amplitude Rotational
2009/3/7
Two forms of a tw0-dimensional streamfunction solution for symmetric periodic water waves on a fluid with a vertical distribution of vorticity are presented. The magnitude of the vorticity varies line...
The problem of mass transport induced by monochromatic waves in a viscous fluid of infinite depth and infinite lateral extent is examined. The fluid viscosity is assumed constant and the effects of Co...
Nonlinear Contributions to the Frequency Spectrum of Wind-Generated Water Waves
Frequency Spectrum Wind-Generated Water Waves
2009/2/16
In the continuous frequency spectrum of wind-generated water waves Fourier components have different origins. At a particular frequency, some will be harmonies resulting from the nonlinear profiles of...
An Illustrative Model Describing the Refraction of Long Water Waves by a Circular Island
Illustrative Model Circular Island Long Water Waves
2009/2/13
The refraction of small shallow water waves by an idealized circular island is studied in this paper. The island's shoal is modeled by a quartic polynomial in the radial variable. This particular mode...
On the Structure of the Velocity Field over Progressive Mechanically-Generated Water Waves
Velocity Field Mechanically-Generated Water Waves
2009/1/21
The structure of the velocity field over a propagating wave of fixed frequency is examined. The vertical and horizontal velocities were measured in a transformed Eulerian wave-following frame of refer...
Dynamic Interaction of Intense Rain with Water Waves
Dynamic Interaction Intense Rain with Water Waves
2008/12/30
A theory for determining the dynamic effect of intense rain on water waves is established, based on momentum exchange. The theory takes into account the rain intensity, angle of incidence and fall vel...
Equilibrium Spectra of Water Waves Forced by Intermittent Wind Turbulence
Equilibrium Spectra Water Waves Intermittent Wind Turbulence
2008/12/19
With the help of fractal geometry used to model the intermittency of energy input from wind to wave components, the theoretical spectra of the equilibrium range in wind-generated gravity waves propose...
A Study of the Wavenumber Spectra of Short Water Waves in the Ocean
Wavenumber Spectra Short Water Waves
2008/12/10
Spatial measurements of capillary-gravity waves in the ocean were obtained using a scanning slope sensor mounted on a free-drifting buoy intended to minimize the flow disturbance. The data provide dir...
A New Statistical Distribution for the Surface Elevation of Weakly Nonlinear Water Waves
Surface Elevation Nonlinear Water Waves
2008/11/6
A new statistical distribution for the surface elevation of weakly nonlinear water waves is derived using the Pearson System of distributions. The new distribution avoids some problems associated with...
Stability Regimes of Finite Depth Short-Crested Water Waves
Stability Regimes Finite Depth Short-Crested Water Waves
2008/7/22
Stability regimes of three-dimensional surface gravity waves are provided in this study. The stability regimes for waves in water of finite depth differ significantly from those for waves in deep wate...
On Determining the Onset and Strength of Breaking for Deep Water Waves. Part I: Unforced Irrotational Wave Groups
Onset Strength Deep Water Waves Wave Groups
2008/6/16
Finding a robust threshold variable that determines the onset of breaking for deep water waves has been an elusive problem for many decades. Recent numerical studies of the unforced evolution of two-d...
On Determining the Onset and Strength of Breaking for Deep Water Waves. Part I: Unforced Irrotational Wave Groups
Deep Water Waves Unforced Irrotational Wave Groups
2008/6/13
Finding a robust threshold variable that determines the onset of breaking for deep water waves has been an elusive problem for many decades. Recent numerical studies of the unforced evolution of two-d...