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A new small wave rider called Surpact was developed for air-sea investigations. It was designed to attach to a drifter or a mooring and to float upon the surface waves in order to measure sea state an...
A numerical model is used to simulate the shoreward propagation of a train of periodic borelike surface disturbances in the surf zone over a sloping beach. Turbulence production is included both in th...
The reflection of water surface waves by long undersea ridges and valleys is studied on the basis of linear longwave theory and of refraction theory. If L is the wavelength and h the local water depth...
The surface wave environment in the GATE B/C scale is described from wave measurements made from buoys and aircraft during Phase III (September 1974). Particular emphasis is given to the wave measurem...
A sophisticated analysis technique is applied to a subset of pitch-roll buoy data collected by the research vessels Gilliss and Quadra during the GARP Tropical Atlantic Experiment (GATE) in September ...
The interaction between the atmospheric and oceanic boundary layers is simulated by solving a closed system of equations including equations of motion, turbulent kinetic energy (TKE), turbulent exchan...
Breaking surface waves were observed during the Surface Wave Process Program with a novel acoustical instrument that makes use of underwater ambient sound to track individual breaking events. The spat...
A freely rising profiler was used to collect vertical microstructure profiles in the upper oceanic boundary layer under various atmospheric and sea conditions. Near the sea surface, the rate of viscou...
Measurements of the ambient noise spectrum level N with simultaneous, coincident wind and wave measurements were made from RP FLIP in fall 1991. The measurements were designed to investigate the corre...
A new model is derived for the propagation of surface waves across a shearing current, which is applicable when the wavelength is comparable to the lateral length scale over which the current changes....
The scattering of flexural–gravity waves in a layer of shallow fluid beneath an ice cover with irregularities is investigated. The irregularities considered are the ice edges, cracks, areas of finely ...
Janssen’s model for the effect of gustiness on the mean energy transfer from a turbulent wind to a surface wave is simplified through a Gauss–Hermite approximation to his probability integral. Two exa...
The shoaling evolution of wave spectra on a beach with straight and parallel depth contours is investigated with a stochastic Boussinesq model. Existing deterministic Boussinesq models cast in the for...

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